jeudi 13 février 2020
Marc Jacobs' Runway Had Miley Cyrus, '60s Style, and Diversity We've Been Asking For
I loved everything I saw stroll down the Marc Jacobs Fall 2020 runway - from the genderless underwear sets in tomato red and mustard yellow to the colored tights and monochrome outfits, complete with hair bandanas and peacoats. From Miley Cyrus' brief appearance in a bralette and pants, trailing her printed coat on the floor, to Kaia Gerber's recreation of her signature Marc Jacobs yellow look, which she's been rocking a different version of since the Spring 2018 season. From the gorgeous glitter dresses that flattered all shapes and sizes to Marc's thunderous stomp during the grand finale, which shut off the lights at the Lexington Avenue Armory and dismissed the guests. Marc's stomp was as if to say: "This is the way fashion should be! And that's final!"
But the design influence here was rooted heavily in the '60s. Models walked two-by-two and performers danced through the mock cafe Marc set up as his stage. A lot was happening at once; a lot of different people, colors, and outfits commanded your attention. It was like watching a scene with Elvis and Ann-Margret right out of 1964's Viva Las Vegas; like catching a glimpse of Edie Segwick dancing through Studio 54 - especially given those short shifts and thick headbands.
Although the vibe was fun, there were plenty of sophisticated Jackie Kennedy-esque skirt suits. Gigi Hadid debuted one in white, and one even came in leather, as a brief nod to 2020's biggest trend. There were glamorous red carpet gowns too - Bella Hadid and Karlie Kloss took care of showing those off. These are the pieces you'll end up seeing most frequently in magazine editorials and at movie premieres. (Naturally, Lady Gaga has to wear one of the PVC raincoat gowns soon.)
The full lineup of models banded together in a straight line across the floor at the very end of the show, altogether presenting Marc's current mood, or perhaps I should say his dream: silhouettes straight out of a '60s party scene, but in a new decade, where diversity is as crucial as the Marc Jacobs brand is to closing out New York Fashion Week.
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