mercredi 12 février 2020
The Rodarte Bride Has the Longest Sky-Blue Train and a Matching Veil to Go With It
Kate and Laura Mulleavy introduced Rodarte's Fall 2020 collection to showgoers at St. Bartholomew's church in New York City amongst white flowers and candlelight, setting the label's signature tone. Guests were hushed before the first model, Bella Hadid, clacked her brooch-adorned heels along the tiled floors, creating an echo. And as if to set the storyline in stone, the next few looks carried out the exact same aesthetic: a glamorous '50s vibe. Modest pleated dresses with poufed shoulders and cinched waists came in polka-dot print or plaid, a print we're seeing plenty of for Fall. Shortened veils sat atop many of the models' heads, like fascinators. (Later we would find these veils were foreshadowing the most glamorous Rodarte bride we could ever imagine.)
The lineup took a sharp turn to a glam cherry bomb '80s moment, with sequined pant sets we could easily picture on Elle Fanning. But then floral appliquéd, sheer midi dresses brought us back to the romance at Rodarte's core. But there weren't just flowers - we saw (and heard!) strands of fringe shake as models outfitted in fully beaded looks took the runway, and we had sparkles in our eyes as a white glittered set spoke to Winter brides in the room in need of an afterparty look. Gothic elements were introduced later, in the form of dark hooded capes and tiered gowns with spiderweb-like circles of sequins on the bodice. Though these all-black numbers were unexpected, especially coming before a bright burst of caped floral maxi gowns we'd wear on the most lavish of vacations, they somehow fit right into a collection that remains fluid for its whimsical qualities. It doesn't matter what color a Rodarte dress comes in, it evokes the same whimsy and sensualness.
Of course, the look everyone will be talking about is the vintage inspired bridal number, a satin dress somewhere in between Champagne and ivory with a baby-blue print and floor-sweeping train that went on for 20 feet - or to be more literal, one very long, magical moment. The grand finale happened when the models took one final walk around the church and then took their places alongside the bride, each of them presenting femininity and beauty in their own unique way.
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